You don’t always get what you pay for…

Travel in Vietnam on a tight schedule meant cutting corners.  Not the corners of comfort, or taking risks with safety…   No, being short of time in June meant I had to cut corners on the d-i-y of travel. Instead of plumbing the depths of a cyberspace overpopulated by fellow flashpackers to unearth the best travel tips for Sapa and Halong Bay, I relied on good, old-fashioned travel agencies to get me the trips I was hoping for.  I did not exactly go completely rogue and used a tour company recommended by a friend who had visited Hanoi the previous year.  As both of us are keen hikers – it was her idea to climb Mount Fuji last year – I was sure that her recommendation would fit my bill…  I selected my trekking and sight-seeing adventure inspired by her choice, and hey presto, I thought I would be in for a treat.

20180609_06292320180609_10334320180608_16082520180608_174306And indeed, the Sapa countryside and impressive views of Halong Bay certainly did not disappoint…  But when a trip described as ‘three days trekking’ only involved two half days of gentle meandering along – admittedly – steep and often slippery paths, there was plenty of disillusion in the air… A sentiment shared by several of the hikers and backpackers who had been expecting to at least work up a sweat…  The only heat generated came from the unrelenting sun blazing down on us…

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If the lack of trekking distance and time was a reason to grumble, so was the ‘stay’ in the ‘homestay’… The beds were soft, the mosquito nets gauzy, long and flowing.  The food was… delicious and very Vietnamese.   But a whole afternoon and evening to kill in rural Vietnam with nothing to do but exchange travel tips and tales from more adventurous sojourns?  No activities organized, not even a board game or deck of cards in sight?  On the other hand, plenty of time to buy overpriced alcohol to boost the homestay’s income…  Not quite the trip I had imagined.  Welcome to Vietnam tourism.

But most surprising were the different prices we all had paid for the same experience… Whereas I had by far spent the most, the younger backpackers who had bought the trip last minute via their hostels and hotels, seemed to have secured the best deals…  Still, none of them had enjoyed the luxury of my overnight train journey to Loa Cai…

I had not yet left Sapa before Halong Bay had lost its shine… I had booked a three-day trip, with an afternoon and night stay at Cat Ba, a large island located near the famous World Heritage site.  Not only would this give me a break from the choppy waters, the island also has a nature reserve in its centre which can be accessed by bike…  as long as you reach the island in the early afternoon, as promised on the online itinerary …

A message from the travel agent alerted me that things were not going to go according to plan, or would even resemble his website description..   He had not been able to secure my accommodation on Cat Ba Island, a cosy room in a beach front bungalow with a sumptuous seafood BBQ for dinner…  Did I mind staying on the boat for another night??  Yes, I minded, very much so. I had booked the trip at least a month earlier, and he only found out now???  A case of the Vietnamese scourge of leaving everything till the last minute…?  I had my heart set on visiting the floating fishing village, which was only possible with the Cat Ba stay.   Eventually, another SMS or two later, a two-star hotel had been found and a refund for the difference in price was on its way..

Halong Bay was awesome and the company on the boat delightful.   On deck Mojitos at sundown, breakfast and lunch catered for… We paddled kayaks, we dropped by the floating fishing village and reached Cat Ba island around 5 pm, too late to explore the island.

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Still, the prospect of excellent food and a bar made up for that… at least until I was shown my new accommodation…   A row of drab, grey motel rooms in the middle of nowhere with a view of somebody’s washing fluttering in front of my window…  I didn’t think so!!!

With no transport to get to the bars or the restaurants or the more lively side of the island, what was the point of being on the island at all??  I was eventually moved to a better hotel, and walked across to the harbour but by then the clouds had started gathering.  The promise of an almighty downpour.  I got soaked, properly soaked.  A river of rain water storming through the street…

Still, all considered I fared better than the guy from Uruguy, who had booked last minute cheap accommodation on Cat Ba island by himself, courtesy of Booking.com.  A deal too good to be true??  On reaching the island, the hostel or hotel had completely vanished into thin air, nobody had ever heard of it…  No bother, he thought, there must be plenty of other places to stay.  As early June coincides with the start of the school holidays, Cat Ba was packed and buzzing with Vietnamese tourists and all the hotels were fully booked.  Had it not been for the mercy of a random old lady who offered her spare room for $20, he might have had to spend the night on a sandy beach…

In the end, we never saw any of Cat Ba island.  We were picked up after an early 7 am breakfast and herded back onto the boat, on the way back to Hanoi…  Maybe, with the benefit of hindsight, an extra night on the boat would not have been so bad.  Although, on Cat Ba the mojitos were a fraction of the price of those on the boat… Happy hour all the way!!

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And as far the tour company I used??  Where the owner had it in his power to make my life easy, he did!!  I was picked up from his home and chauffeured to the train station; on my return from Sapa and before the start of my trip to Halong Bay, I showered and rested in a room in his house; there was coffee…  But he was only an intermediary in Hanoi, selling the trips; he was not in charge of the actual trips… A shame, really…

On the upside, I learned an invaluable lesson: it pays to do your homework and do it well.  Search the internet, read the travel blogs and tips, ask fellow travelers, use hostels, use the buses… Ask all the details and read the small print when booking organized trips, show the bus or taxi driver your destination… and do some diy travel and especially, if you have the time, take your time…

You will still encounter a myriad of unexpected adventures, but they will be so much more interesting to talk about than gripes about inexperienced or unscrupulous travel companies…  It will be our own cluelessness and ignorance that will be the butt of our jokes..   For instance, how did I almost miss my flight from Hanoi back to Danang??? I had cut it rather fine, time wise, after enjoying two cups of early morning coffee staying at a friend’s house.  I hopped onto the bus which appeared a lot later than expected, but so much cheaper than taking a taxi… I only had myself to blame for not checking that there were two different terminals at the airport and I got off at the international terminal, several kilometers removed from the domestic terminal…  Next time, I will show my ticket to the bus driver.  And when someone hurriedly directs me to counter 8-2-2* before the flight closes,  I shall remember they might just literally mean: counters 8 to 2 …  You see d-i-y, it was worth it: another lesson learnt!!

*Cultural note:

  • In Vietnam, the end sounds are not pronounced clearly, as they are not important in the Vietnamese language… so the s for a plural is often  missing.  Hence I heard counter, not counters
  • Numbers larger than 10 are made up of the words for the single digits so 822 (eight hundred and twenty two) would be said as eight two two….

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2 thoughts on “You don’t always get what you pay for…

  1. Alison and Don

    Oh this is so typical of Vietnam. We booked a trip to travel by boat from Phnom Pen to HCMC. Barely a third of it was by boat, many things we were promised we didn’t get, and it was on the third day that I finally lost it and got something of what we’d been promised. We also had problems on our 3 day Ha Long Bay trip, and Nomadic Matt said Vietnam is his least favourite country and he’ll never go back – paraphrasing here but I read an article he wrote telling similar stories. Great photos!
    Alison

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply
    1. lievelee Post author

      It is a shame really, because Vietnam has got some great tourist attractions and they definitely could do with the influx of tourist dollars… but unless they work on their customer services, this is not going to materialize any time soon. The only travelers I have met who have been satisfied are the ones who spent big bucks, or the ones on a very tight budget who expect that things may not always be as expected, or described in the brochure.. I just hope that my diy travel in September will be better… We’ll see..

      Lieve

      Liked by 1 person

      Reply

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